Week 2: Bay of Islands and Bay of Plenty

Waitangi and Paihia

Having already been caught up in Anniversary weekend in Auckland we’re excited to hear that there is another celebration on the way – Waitangi Day. Waitangi is a few kilometres down the coast at the Bay of Islands, exactly where we’re heading. We arrive in Paihia – the centre of the bay of Islands and a 20-minute walk to Waitangi – just as the celebrations are revving up. Waitangi Day commemorates the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi – the founding document of New Zealand. Signed in 1840 between the British Crown and the United Tribes of New Zealand and other Maori leaders (50 in total) it is a treaty setting out the rights of all parties and was meant to help protect the Maori from land-grabbing by the settlers, and the settlers being allowed to settle in peace. However, with one treaty in English and a Maori translation there has often been discontent and upset over the way the treaty has been implemented as a result of the different interpretations. As a consequence Waitangi Day has often been marred by protests and unruly behaviour, with many people choosing to stay clear of the area. However, relations between Maori and Pakeha (non Maori) are currently better than ever and this day is a fantastic celebration.

There’s a real party atmosphere around the bay with children jumping into the sea from the bridge, families playing in the water and multiple displays of local culture, signing and dancing. The Maori waka’s (war canoes) are out on the sea for us to admire, many of which have recently been restored and are out for the first time in 50 years.

We also have the opportunity to see the largest, which can hold 130 people. We watch the guys do the Haka, which is great fun and for once is when being ugly is the ultimate aim. There’s act after act on the main stage and we get to watch and listen to lots of traditional Maori dancing and singing as well as more contemporary acts such as a fantastic young hip hop dance group.

Later on in the day we make our way over to the Treaty Grounds to watch the NZ Navy perform the ‘Beat Retreat’ Sunset Ceremony’ and the ‘Lowering of the Flag’. It was an eclectic and fun day where we were truly submerged into New Zealand culture.

Kauri Forest

On our way to our next destination we take a drive through the Kauri forest on the west coast of Northland. There’s not much to note from our drive down this way with the exception of the Kauri trees themselves. The Kauri is an ancient tree which can live up to 2000 years and can measure up to 50 meters in height and 20 meters in girth. We visit Tane Mahuta (Lord of the Forest), which has a girth of 16 meters and is approximately 50 meters tall. The photos do not do it justice…this tree is immense.

Whitianga (pronounced Fitianga)

Next on our route down is the Coromandel Peninsular where we stop at a small little harbour town called Whitianga on Mercury Bay. This is a lovely area with lots of beautiful coves and walks but the fun highlight is certainly ‘Hot Water Beach’.

For two hours either side of low tide (just gone noon when we visit) the activity is to dig your own hole in the sand and create your own hot water spa pool. You walk along the beach testing the sand which your feet to see where the hot water brewing and then start digging, being careful not to choose a spot that feels like the kettle’s just boiled. Having found what we believe is an appropriate spot, we start digging, working against the waves that seem set on destroying our hard work. Typical of us, we end up with a major engineering feat, big enough for guests, which is just perfect, given that’s what we have!! As we settle in to our new spa pool home we bump into Sue and Graham Bennett, one of our best mates from home Lou - ’s Mum and Dad! Yep…small world.

It’s brilliant. We invite them into our warm little pool and have a good old catch up about what’s going on at home as well as exchanging hints, tips and good places to visit in NZ. What a way to spend an afternoon. This is definitely a must-do activity!!

Lake Taupo

After Whitianga we drive on to Taupo which is in the centre. The main thing about Taupo, and impossible to miss at any distance, is the lake – all 616 square kilometres of it! The largest lake in New Zealand and the largest fresh water lake in Oceania it was formed by a series of volcanic eruptions of epic proportions, the lake sits in the crater of the volcano – a Caldera. The latest eruption – dated at 186AD – threw 100 cubic kilometres of material into the atmosphere and was so significant that the Chinese noted a blackening of the sky and the Romans talked of the heavens turning red. However this eruption is tiny compared to the one that made the lake originally which ejected 1,170 cubic kilometres of molten rock, ash and other material. Today the lake and lakeside are very tranquil and we spend two days relaxing in and around the town. We have planned an excursion to Waitomo Caves for later this week but intend to return here as we feel we have not seen many of the ‘must-do’ activities, watch for the next updates.