Today we travel further up the coast of Kerala to Fort Cochin, a historic trading port with a strong Portuguese and Dutch influence. Fort Cochin itself is very small and easy to walk around which makes it quite different to a number of places we’ve been to. In addition, it has a wonderful mixture of religions and the town is crammed full of Hindu temples, Jewish synagogues and catholic churches. As with most of Kerala there is a high proportion of literacy (approx. 95%) and with the lush surroundings and abundance of fishing the life of the people here seems so much easier and more enjoyable than Rajasthan.
We spend most of our first day strolling around the town, looking at the iconic Chinese fishing nets and exploring the churches and temples. Before dinner, we head off to watch a kathakali dance show.
Kathakali is an ancient dance/drama ritual, which depicts the stories of gods and demons. It’s almost like a pantomime with sign language when you consider how elaborate and expressive the productions are. There are no words, only a singer, some musicians and a handful of actors using every muscle, facial expression and eye movement to play out the amazing stories. The preparation is highly ritualised involving costume and make-up and the training to become a kathakali actor or musician takes around eight years. The dramas themselves last around eight hours (luckily ours was only a snapshot!) and you can truly imagine the performances taking place in front of a Maharaja and his entourage as they eat, drink and be merry.
The next day we’re up and off on a tour of the Keralan backwaters; a labyrinth of waterways made up of lakes, canals and rivers that connect thousands of islands and which are the source of life for much of rural Kerala. Gently cruising through the backwaters, spotting local wildlife and watching the villagers going about their daily lives is far more relaxing than we expected it to be.
The islands are covered in coconut trees (which are believed to be sacred by the keralan people) and the beauty of the areas is undeniable. It is so peaceful and so tranquil it is a thoroughly enjoyable way to spend the day. As the sun goes down we head back to our small hotel in Fort Cochin and pass the Santa Cruz Basilica (a Portuguese Catholic Church).
We are drawn closer by the sound of music and find that they are having an evening carol service. The grounds are full of locals of all ages holding candles and singing Christmas Carols. It is a fantastic sight and experience and we’re disappointed to realise that it’s nearing the end. This is our first sign of Christmas and truly gets us in the festive spirit.
Today we travel further up the coast of Kerala to Fort Cochin, a historic trading port with a strong Portuguese and Dutch influence. Fort Cochin itself is very small and easy to walk around which makes it quite different to a number of places we’ve been to. In addition, it has a wonderful mixture of religions and the town is crammed full of Hindu temples, Jewish synagogues and catholic churches. As with most of Kerala there is a high proportion of literacy (approx. 95%) and with the lush surroundings and abundance of fishing the life of the people here seems so much easier and more enjoyable than Rajasthan.
An early rise the next morning and we’re off for a daytrip to Munnar, a town high up in the hills surrounded by Tata tea plantations. This is well worth a visit. The journey up to Munnar takes a good few hours by car but the scenery is breathtaking. Rich, green tea plantations cover the hills as we head higher and higher up the mountain. A break in our journey allows us an unexpected elephant ride through a spice garden. We stop for lunch in Munnar itself, delicious biryani and curry…
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